The British Virgin Islands
A trip down memory lane
By Katherine Stone
It was the trip of a lifetime… a double honeymoon bareboat charter in the British Virgin Islands (BVIs) with my father and his new wife. There would be island hopping, local seafood, swimming, snorkeling and island culture. There were no hotels, no 5-star (or even 2-star) restaurants, only beach bars and a fisherman who had been bringing in his catch to a local seaside eatery since 1979. Thanks to its calm waters and steady trade winds, the BVIs are revered as the sailing capital of the world.
It is thought that the Virgin Islands were first settled by the Arawak from South America around 100 BC, who lived there until the 15th century when they were displaced by the Kalinago (Island Caribs). Christopher Columbus first sighted the islands in 1493, naming them “Santa Ursula y las Once Mil Virgenes” after the legend of Saint Ursula, but the Spanish never settled them. The English, Danish, French and Spanish jostled for control of the islands, which became a notorious haven for pirates.
When we had the opportunity to visit the islands last November with Horizon Yacht Charters on a Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 440, we jumped at the chance. Thanks to a $55 million airport renovation in 2004, we were able to fly American Airlines from Toronto to Beef Island with just one stop in Miami. Our pilot explained that if it was raining we would not be able to land, as the runway, although expanded, required an aircraft carrier approach. Lucky for us it wasn’t raining! Upon arrival we had a 40-minute taxi ride ($18 USD per person) to Horizon’s base. What a change from 1979 when there was only one charter company; now Nanny Cay has charter companies galore that offer monohulls as well as plenty of catamarans.
