Balmy Brentwood Bay & Peaceful Tod Inlet
By Anne and Laurence Yeadon-Jones
Photos and Charts by Laurence Yeadon-Jones
Off Saanich Inlet, enjoy laid-back luxury at Brentwood Bay Lodge and peaceful anchorage at nearby Tod Inlet Marine Park.
South of Satellite Channel and the southern tip of Salt Spring Island, the protected waters and spectacular vistas of BC’s southernmost inlet cuts 12 miles into Vancouver Island. Saanich Inlet’s fjord-like waters reach as far south as Goldstream Provincial Park at the picturesque estuary of the Goldstream River. Towered over by the Malahat Ridge to the west and Mount Work to the east, the inlet holds some welcoming surprises. They include balmy, sunny Brentwood Bay and Lodge, the magnificent Butchart Gardens, and a peaceful anchorage in Tod Inlet Marine Park, where boaters can access the hiking and biking trails in Gowlland Tod Provincial Park.
With Dreamspeaker on a comfortable close reach, we made our way down Saanich Inlet, sailing to Senanus Island before furling our sails at Sluggett Point, the northern corner of Brentwood Bay. The historic Mill Bay Ferry was heading 
for its Brentwood Bay terminal so we tucked around its stern and, leaving the red buoy U22 to starboard, we headed for our allotted berth at upscale Brentwood Bay Marina. It was a far cry from our first visit in the late ‘90s when the old Brentwood Inn was a raucous biker bar with rickety walkways and floats!
Brentwood Bay Lodge, Spa and Marina
Today, the well-maintained resort marina will accommodate boats up to 120’ in 25 visitor slips that fill up fast in the summer months, so it’s best to book in advance. Backed by the contemporary West Coast architecture of Brentwood Bay Lodge and Spa and adjacent Ocean Villas, the marina is conveniently linked to the resort pool, hot tub and spa by a curved cedar boardwalk. Facilities on the dock include washrooms with showers, laundry, a fitness room and wireless Internet. The dockside Eco-Adventure Centre rents kayaks, arranges eco-cruise tours, scuba diving and snorkeling adventures, and dive charters; it also provides a handy water shuttle service to nearby Butchart Gardens. The adjacent Mill Bay ferry offers easy access to the wine and food country of the Cowichan Valley, making regular crossings on a route described as “Vancouver Island’s most beautiful shortcut.”
Designed in West Coast style “with a touch of Zen,” the lodge’s atmosphere is one of laid-back luxury. Breathe deeply and begin with a little self-indulgence at the spa – choose a Tropical Oasis Wrap or Westcoast Hot Stone Massage. Bond with your partner and enjoy the Vino Lovers Retreat which includes a blissful vino scrub, rainshower and massage.
Relaxed and ready to savour fresh coastal cuisine paired with local and international wines at the Seagrille, you can request a table on the patio overlooking the marina or cozy up beside the large stone fireplace and admire the vaulted timber ceilings and dramatic local art; a watercolour sunset reflected over the Malahat Range may be an added bonus.
The Sushi and Sake Bar with fresh, made-to-order platters prepared by the resort’s Japanese chefs offers a more 
casual dining alternative, as does the adjoining Brentwood Pub and deck – a sociable spot popular with island locals and visitors. The pub is known for its local craft beers, regional wines, diverse menu and tasty appetizers, all prepared in the restaurant kitchen.
Boaters off to an early start or just taking a break from the galley can indulge in a hearty breakfast served in the Seagrille. The choice of scrumptious egg dishes and the view out to the bay are worth a half-hour less under the duvet.
If you plan to stay for a few days and explore the treasures of Saanich Peninsula, spend a fun morning visiting the enclosed Victoria Butterfly Gardens, with more than 3,000 exotic tropical butterflies and a host of rare tropical birds and flamingos. The 200 species of orchids are just some of the thousands of exotic plants that make up the garden’s balanced eco-system. The Church and State Winery and Lodge is conveniently situated next door – pop in for a wine tasting, cheese platter or 
lunch on the patio prepared from fresh local ingredients.
A self-guided Peninsula Loop Tour by car is a pleasurable way to visit local wineries, a cider house, and the fruit and vegetable farms that often have convenient roadside “honesty stands” that offering fresh produce, eggs and honey. The resort’s front desk will supply an easy-to-follow map and arrange car rental or a wine tour (if you are planning a wine tour it’s best let them know a day or two in advance).
Brentwood Town Centre, a short walk from the waterfront, offers all the necessary amenities; there are also two cafés that serve excellent food within walking distance of the marina (see sidebar).
With all the pleasures made available to us, we can only sum up our interlude at Brentwood Bay as delightful!
Tod Inlet and Butchart Cove
Most boaters new to Tod Inlet are pleasantly surprised to find that there is a small boat entrance to Butchart Cove with mooring buoys, metal rings for stern lines, a dinghy dock and waterfront access to the Butchart Gardens. These spectacular gardens are a national historic site open year-round and artistically landscaped with more than 5,000 varieties of flowers, shrubs and trees. There are two restaurants and a café, and traditional afternoon tea is served daily. The Children's Pavilion and exotic Rose Carousel were added in 2009.
On Saturday evenings in July and August the Gardens provides musical entertainment and fireworks at dusk, when the cove becomes a busy vantage point for the boating crowd. The water shuttle from Brentwood Bay Marina offers a convenient round trip to the Butchart Cove dock and the Gardens, for a stress-free evening.
Captivating Tod Inlet, protected by steep, forested shorelines, affords tranquil, all-weather anchorage in Tod Inlet Marine Park. Gowlland Tod Provincial Park’s shady creekside trail is accessible from the north shore where you will find a small 
dinghy dock and picnic tables. Wooden stairs bordered by lush green ferns and moss-covered trees lead to paths and walkways that follow the creek and its waterfalls to the road entrance at Wallace Drive, near Quarry Lake – an enjoyable 20-minute hike.
Watch for the wooden nest boxes on stilts near the north shore of the anchorage. This has become an important nesting location for a busy colony of endangered Western Purple Martins that enjoy its protected waters and food supply. To savour the extended evening light, drop your hook near the head of the inlet, bring out the extra cushions, and enjoy something cool in the comfort of your cockpit.
Then and Now
The original Brentwood Inn was built in the 1930s as a fishing lodge. Nearby Tod Inlet and the Goldstream River were considered the ultimate fishing destination, and the lodge was a favourite retreat for many well-known personalities 
including actor Bob Hope and Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau. A quick visit to the city was as easy as hopping on the daily train that ran from the Butchart Gardens to Victoria. The lodge was eventually sold and turned into an inn and pub which over the intervening years became a rundown bar.
Today, the Brentwood Bay Lodge and Spa is a five-star boutique hotel – a product of the personal vision, planning and hard work of owners Dan and Frauke Behune, who have been responsible for the design and day-to-day operation of the resort since it opened in 2004. They recognized the potential of this once-shabby waterfront property and purchased the inn and adjacent motel after selling Abigail’s, their successful boutique hotel in Victoria. Starting from scratch, they have built the lodge into a contemporary full-service boutique hotel with a recognizable West Coast identity.
Brentwood Bay Eateries
Seahorses Café
Adjacent to the ferry jetty, a series of wooden steps lead to the relaxed and cosy Seahorses Café. The refurbished glass garage doors let in the light on a rainy day and open onto a large patio deck dotted with colourful umbrellas when the sun shines. A favourite with ferry passengers and locals, the café is famous for its hearty clam chowder and rich French onion soup. The menu offers a good choice of tasty fare, including three varieties of homemade burgers that will keep you going for the rest of the day. (250-544-1565)
seahorsescafe.webs.com
Blue’s Bayou Café
Casual dining in a jazzy atmosphere with “a little bit of Bayou where you would least expect it!” This is a great place to watch the Butchart Gardens Saturday night fireworks from the large heated outdoor patio. Feast on their Creole Queen Crab Cakes, Ragin’ Cajun (real) Alligator Sausage, fresh Bayou Salad or a wholesome jambalaya – a melange of Creole tomato sauce, jumbo shrimp, chicken and Andouille sausage accompanied by a chunk of homemade corn bread. Owners Blue and Lorill will tempt you with their scrummy Bread Pudding topped with Bourbon-style Cream Sauce. Reservations essential. (250-544-1194)
www.bluesbayoucafe.com
Details & Coordinates
Brentwood Bay Marina (250-652-3151 or 1-888-544-2079) VHF Channel 66A www.brentwoodbayresort.com
The Butchart Gardens (250-652-4422) www.butchartgardens.com
Butterfly Gardens (1-877-722-0272) www.butterflygardens.com
Church and State Wines (250-652-2671) www.churchandstatewines.com
Photo Captions:
Photo 1 – Brentwood Bay enjoys a spectacular setting in Saanich Inlet.
Photo 2 – Boaters find peaceful and protected anchorage in Tod Inlet Marine Park.
Photo 3 – Nest boxes for Western Purple Martins are located in Tod Inlet Marine Park.
Photo 4 – A watercolour sunset afterglow illuminates Brentwood Bay Marina.
Photo 5 – The Mill Bay ferry offers the most beautiful shortcut across Saanich Inlet.
Photo 6 – The original Brentwood Inn.
Photo 7 – The Brentwood Bay Lodge and Spa today.
Anne and Laurence Yeadon-Jones are experienced sailors who over the last 25 years have logged thousands of cruising hours charting, recording and photographing their travels along the rugged and beautiful coastline of the Pacific Northwest. They have produced six colourful, information-packed Dreamspeaker Cruising Guides and are regular contributors to local and international boating magazines.
